From Book II:
When walking down Jaffa Street, the biggest rush for the foreigner is when he (or she) makes the abrupt left turn at the end of the street and the Ottoman parapets of the Old City come into focus. The gradual downhill slope, next to the grassy lawn, makes for an easy finish at the Damascus Gate. The walls of the Old City are most amazing here. The sand color stones gleam high in the sun and its jagged edges hint back to an earlier time for humanity, when you had to actually layer your defenses so that drunks with arrows could shoot at whatever infidel seemed to be invading. Now, everyone has fighter jets and whatever the hell Saddam used, and thus the gradual decline from Jaffa Street to the Damascus Gate is now better known for great pictures, the entrance to the Old City and the best place to catch a taxi to Bethlehem.